Saturday, February 18, 2012

Eclectic Reds for a Birthday Celebration

An impromptu and slightly belated birthday celebration for our friend Linda at a local Italian bistro, provided the opportunity to taste some diverse and varied reds. The venue was Angeli's Restaurant in Naperville, IL. Angeli's has been a fixture since 1996. Such longevity in the fickle, trendy, restaurant industry points to the quality of the food, service and atmosphere. We were thrilled to be joined by Rick and Linda, Bob and Gloria.

We opened with a shared Artichoke Lasagna accompanied by a 2006 Castillo di Gabbiano Alleanza Toscana www.cellartracker.com/w?616376  from Angeli's cellar. What a pleasant surprise! I am partial to super Tuscans with a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Alleanza is 70% Merlot and 30% Sangiovese and was bigger and more fruit forward than the blend implies. Bright red in the glass with an unimpressive nose, the wine opened to reveal bright fruits, cherry, raspberry on the front palate evolving to earthy, leather and mocha on the finish. It was smooth, well balanced and the Merlot softened the acidity I usually associate with Sangiovese. It combined nicely with the delicate artichoke pasta and a house salad with Gorgonzola.

I selected the spinach lasagna as an entree while Beth opted for an "off the menu" portobello ravioli. The portobello ravioli which is a semi regular offering was outstanding as usual. The lasagna was al dente with a bright and spicy red sauce. The only downside was that the spinach itself was stringy and chewy. Accompanying BYOB wines included a 1998 Seavey Napa Cabernet www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=8472 i from my cellar and a 1998 Lewis Reserve Napa Cab www.cellartracker.com/w?21629  from Rick and Linda's cellar.

The Seavey is drinking very well and in the sweet spot of its drinking window. Deeper in color than the Alleanza, the nose provides a combination of floral, moss and mineral notes. The Seavey reveals red fruit, spice, a bit of vanilla and oak on the palate. It also required a full 90 minutes to reveal its complexity. This is a traditional cab, stylistically much like a left bank Bordeaux.

The 1998 Lewis Reserve was a more new world style, huge with dark fruit. Deep purple in the glass, with, herbs, spice and oak on the nose. A fruit bomb on the palate, evidencing blackberry, plum, cassis and surprisingly almost no oak. The Lewis offers a mouth filling, palate coating finish that goes on an on. As enjoyable as it is now, the Lewis seems to have plenty of time left. One can only imagine what this will be like in 10 years.

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