Sonoma Sampler

Vintage after vintage, ratings for Sonoma reds are consistently lower than those of their Napa cousins. Granted, styles are different with Sonoma typically producing rounder, softer spicier wines. Napa reds on the other hand tend toward more structure and complexity. But last night's experience highlights that Sonoma wines can be every bit the equal of  their counterparts in the next valley.

The evening opened with a 2006 Constant Syrah "The Queen of Hearts" Diamond Mountain (https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=694606). Wait, you say. I thought this was a Sonoma retrospective. We first visited Constant almost exactly a year ago. According to Freddie Constant himself, his is the only vineyard which falls in both Napa and Sonoma and his Syrah is officially a Sonoma wine. The Queen, deep inky purple in the glass, opens with a bit of an herbal nose  and lots of bright fruit on the palate. Over 30 minutes or so, it evolves into something a bit more complex. The nose gives off more perfume. On the palate, the wine begins to evidence some of the minerality and spice typically evident in syrah or shiraz. We served this with fresh strawberries and blueberries and some mimolette, gouda and pepper cheese. I rated the Constant Syrah a 90. This was a really delicious wine, fresh, fruity and well balanced. I do not believe this has the tannins or structure to be very long lived however and the Cellartracker drinking window of 2011 to 2014 seems right.

Of late, I have been trying to prune the cellar of wines that may be approaching the end of their drinking window. It does add interest to work in a horizontal or vertical flavor to this initiative. So it was on this occasion as I brought out a 1997 Gundlach Bundschu Cabernet Sauvignon Rhinefarm Vineyard (https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=136899) and paired it with a 2000 Gundlach Bundschu Cabernet Sauvignon Rhinefarm Vineyard (https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=109617) from the southern end of Sonoma Valley. Rick and Linda were kind enough to contribute a 2000 Hanna Cabernet Sauvignon Bismarck Mountain from the northern end of Sonoma to keep with the theme.

The 1997 Gundlach Bundschu, drinking beautifully now, was the highlight of the evening (my rating 91). It opened with a beautiful floral nose, almost perfume like and lots of bright red fruit, strawberry, raspberry, cherry. Over 30 minutes it began to reveal some minerality and herbal flavors The additional layer of complexity combined with the incredibly floral nose  reminded the group of a good Margaux. The 1997 is very balanced with well integrated tannins and has several of years life yet. Beth had prepared a dinner of Steak Diane, grilled asparagus and sauteed small potatoes and onion. The Gundlachs, both vintages, had a sweetness that was a perfect match to the sweetness in the Steak Diane which stems from the shallots and brandy used to flame the beef.

The 2000 Gundlach (my rating 86) was not the equal of the '97 nor was it expected to be given the difference in the quality of the vintage. The 2000 still showed depth and balance, just not the same layered complexity of the '97. The 2000 still gave off the floral notes on the nose. The color was darker and more opaque than the '97 but on the palate, the 2000 was one dimensional, more focused on the minerality and herbal tones and much less on the fruit so fresh and evident in the '97.

Rick's 2000 Hanna Cabernet Sauvignon Bismarck Mountain (my rating 88) was still in excellent shape, a tribute to proper cellaring as the recommended drinking window ended in 2008. The Hanna was still fresh with ample fruit. Deep, opaque purple in the glass, this reflected a more traditional Sonoma profile...a little oak and herbs on the nose. Dark fruits, black raspberry and currants on the front palate, a bit of pepper and maybe some licorice on the mid palate. Mild tannins. The Hanna was a nice complement to a dessert of individual serving cheesecake (vanilla and chocolate), chocolate truffles and miniature mixed nut pies.